By Gini Rainey
The 4th of July is right around the corner and what do most of us like to do on that All-American holiday? Why, we gather all our friends together for a great day of picnicking, barbequing, celebrating, and having a really great time together! Now, I don’t know about you, but one of the staples of many of our picnics just happens to be potato salad! While talking with one of my friends recently, we decided that everyone seems to have a different take on how to prepare it. So that’s how the topic for this edition of the Cookbook Junkie came about!
While doing some research on the topic in my “the library,” it became relatively clear that the many variations on the potato salad theme is regional. I grew up in Minnesota and my mom’s recipe was simple and basic. Of course, she began with fork-tender boiled potatoes – the common denominator of all potato salads. Then she peeled them, diced them, added the boiled eggs, diced celery, and onions, a Miracle Whip® based dressing, salt, and pepper. Growing up in an area that was rampant with Germans and Scandinavians, I would have thought her go-to recipe would have been for hot potato salad.
The White House Cookbook, compiled over the years from White House stewards beginning with Hugo Ziemann who served under Grover Cleveland, shares this simple recipe from 1894 “Chop cold boiled potatoes fine, with enough raw onions to season nicely; make a dressing as for lettuce salad, and pour over it.” In the updated edition, with a healthier spin and published in 1996, fat-free mayonnaise and nonfat yogurt is used, along with the usual ingredients, adding in prepared mustard, chives, cucumber, and an extra bonus of horseradish.
Not surprisingly, Wonderful Good Cooking from Amish Country Kitchens includes the recipe for Hot Potato Salad. It calls for bacon and sugar, which seem to be the common denominator in all the Hot Potato Salad recipes I’ve looked at. In Savoring the Seasons a cookbook from New Bern, NC, its recipe for German Potato Salad calls for an inordinate amount of sugar with 1 ½ cups for 12 medium potatoes. However, in Marianna Olszewska Heberle’s German Cooking, the recipe for Potato Salad is an exception to variations I’ve seen. It’s served cold, with Dijon mustard, fresh dill, and sour cream in the dressing, but no sugar or bacon. She offers a variation that includes diced apple and ham, while Better Homes and Gardens New Cookbook calls for the addition of parsley and pimiento.
I have a feeling, from my research, that the west coast doesn’t do much potato salading. I found one recipe in Florence Henderson’s cookbook A Little Cooking, A Little Talking, and A Whole Lot of Fun, but it’s shared by Mel Tillis, who calls Nashville home. His recipe is fairly true to the basic one, but it includes large diced sweet pickles, pimientos, and mustard.
The Martha Stewart Cookbook-Collected Recipes for Every Day features, not only the recipe for Potato Salad Vinaigrette, which uses unpeeled red, new potatoes, white wine, Dijon Mustard, and chopped dill pickles, but one called Roquefort Potato Salad that includes dry vermouth, Tobasco® sauce, basil, cumin, and grainy mustard, along with unpeeled red, new potatoes. In her Martha’s American Food cookbook, she includes the recipe for Classic Potato Salad that features chopped scallions and cornichons.
Personally, our family is a fan of Mustard Potato Salad, which I probably learned to make by watching my MIL cook. So, when I make it, I peel and cube 6 medium russet potatoes and boil them till they are fork tender. I also hard-boil 3-4 eggs and chop them when cool. Then I semi-mash the potatoes and add the eggs, 1 diced medium onion, 1 diced large dill pickle, 3 tablespoons of prepared mustard, ¾ teaspoon of celery salt, ½ teaspoon of black pepper, and 1½ cups of Miracle Whip® salad dressing and mix until combined.
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